Wed. Jan 17

 
One full week here!  Again, no sleep last night, it’s just too noisy here!  The roosters are confused with the time.  They’re at “it” all night!
 
Our last day here.  We need to say our goodbyes to Cape Coast.  After breakfast, we begin with Elizabeth, our cook.  We gave her a compact mirror and our message that God sees her as special, the same as we do.  She is SOOOO grateful for the small token!  That is humbling, that you can make a person smile so much with so little.  We interrupted each class briefly to say our goodbyes to the students.  We arrived on Saturday night and most of the teachers didn’t even know that we were there!  We’ll need to get the word out ourselves the next time we’re here.
 
As we enter each room, all the children rise and sign “Good Morning, fine, fine!”  It’s as though they don’t wait to see the “How are you?,” they immediately sign the “fine, fine.”  I like that!  Maybe I’ll start that in the States!  After all the classrooms have been visited, I say goodbyes to the blind students.  They call me “Madam.”  I love how they say it too!  I could get used to that!  smile  John meets us with us promptly at 10:30 am to take us the bus.  Of course, the bus is delayed, so we wait. In the meantime, we teach and encourage John in his signing.  Many wonderful things came from our visit to Cape Coast, but 2 things stand out.  Joseph’s interest in taking up classes with Pastor Reinke and getting John involved with the deaf school.  Before leaving, we introduced him to the Headmistress and students who are willing to teach him.  John will make a great teacher someday, and who knows, maybe at the Lutheran High School in Kumasi.
 
The bus finally picks us up and we head off to Kumasi.  We said our goodbyes to John as we head out 2 hours behind schedule.  The bus ride was enjoyable, not like last year where the driver was trying to break some land record!  The country looks so dry and dusty!  One section of the trip remains much as it did last year.  The cars are left to their own devices when driving!  They make up their OWN rules here!  Makes driving a tad interesting! 
 
We arrive in Kumasi at 5:30 PM.  Amadu is THERE!  He’s not taking any chances of me leaving the bus yard as I did last year!  He was not happy with me!  We drive to the house and as soon as we walk in, the electricity goes out!  We’re Herrrrrrrrre!  This is normal in Ghana.  It’s their answer to an energy problem.  Rationing the power. Every 5 days, the electricity is shut down in a region of Ghana for 12 hours.  Tonight, it’s our turn, but not all of Kumasi is affected!  Perfect timing!!  No lights, no fans, etc.  The power will be restored promptly at 6 am.  So, we head to eat where a section of Kumasi has power. WE dine on veggie pizza and enjoy a cold Castle Milk Stout!!!  I LOVE IT! Nothing every tasted sooooooo good!  No more fish!!  Maybe now some sleep would be good!
 
 

Thurs. Jan. 18, 2007

 
Had some extra pillows to sleep with last night.  I guess I just miss my husband.  Betty Jo is just not the same!
 
We enjoyed a great breakfast of eggs, minced meat (?), fresh pineapple and bread all wonderfully prepared by Pastor John.  He does it all!!  It was wonderful being with everyone again.  I missed Karen and Sandy!!  After breakfast, laundry time! No washing machine here (broken), so into the tub it goes!  One can appreciate a washer when doing it all by hand.  But we had MANY hands and the dryer (outside clothesline) dries everything in no time! 
 
Amadu needs to run errands, so Betty Jo and I join him.  Went to some interesting places.  The street vendors only tell part of the story.  Behind these stores are alleys filled with even more street vendors!  I felt we were in the Black Market looking for razor blades.  (Those American women!)  Amadu had his version of what we were looking for, but I think we exposed too much information to him about American women.  He thought we were looking for regular blades then you put it on a pencil eraser!  Poor thing!  He has much to learn!  We all had a good laugh!
 
While wandering the streets, we meet a deaf woman who used to take classes with Pastor Palmer.  She works in a salon and braids hair with her sisters.  Perfect!!  Betty Jo has been waiting to have that done since our arrival.  So off we go!  We leave her to the sisters as Amadu and I go to do other things.  I have a feeling Betty Jo will be sitting for awhile.  While walking these busy streets, I realize I am the only white person here.  I told Amadu, that in America, this would not be a good situation to be in.  But here?  No one pays me any mind.  I feel so comfortable.  I heard one man say “Hi Oburni,” while Amadu laughs as another asks (in a different language) “Are you lost?”  (Amadu speaks 10 different languages, as we try to teach him his 11th, sign language!)  I really do love the sights and smells of this country!  Betty Jo and I had a conversation about how the Ghanaian people smell.  This is a land of neither deodorant nor perfume.  But the people don’t smell offensive.  It’s a very distinctive smell, and everyone smells the same.  When I happen to pass by a gentleman of “class,” he reeked of cologne.  It just smelled wrong in this place!
 
Betty Jo sat for 2+ grueling hours of what appeared to be pain staking hair abuse.  But she looks great!  At one time, 5 women were working on her at the same time and it STILL took over 2 hours!  Such tedious work, braiding teeny strains of hair like that!  Pastor Reinke had wanted us to be at the house earlier to assist in teaching, so we were prepared for the lashing upon our return.  We hid behind Amadu, but told him we would “back” him up! But we returned just in time, for dinner!  Agnes is our cook again at the house and she always prepares a great meal.  Tonight was no exception, rice and beans with chicken.  At this point, anything without FISH is a winner in my books!  We enjoy our dinner with a huge group of students that Karen, Sandy and Pastor Reinke are teaching!   
 
After dinner, Betty Jo and I have our first experience teaching the adults.  We started with a big group, but most live far away, so travel is always an issue.  But for those that stayed and what we taught, I would have to say we did a good job for our first attempt. 
 
With the studies at a close, the other classes combine for socializing and signing songs.  I chatted a bit with Daniel, a hearing boy that comes to class.  He is truly gifted and also has blossomed since last year.  Time to read some emails and prepare for another full day of teaching tomorrow.  We are “practicing” on the adults to teach the children in Tamale.  The adults are just BIG kids! 
 
 

Friday, Jan. 19, 2007

 
Was hoping to sleep in, but I was up with the chickens.  Can’t do the “late to bed, early to rise” thing here in Ghana.  Wish I could just sleep better.
 
After breakfast, Betty Jo and I used the opportunity to teach our stories for the children on the adults.  I think it went well.  I’m feeling so much more relaxed, getting a better understanding of the Moses’ stories and applying more to the teachings, such as acting with feelings, taking on the role.  Everything here is about repeating until they get it!  What you might think is repetition; it’s like being heard for the first time! We’re here to teach them the Gospel, and all they remember is the Law.   During a break, I noticed one of the students signing the behavior one must have to the other students.  I asked him if he was a sinner, “yes.” I then asked him if he was going to Heaven, “No!” Ok, now that opened a whole can of worms.  I have never ventured into these waters before – to speak of the difference between the Law and Gospel. We spent the rest of the afternoon on that subject only.  It’s as though they retain part of the message.  I explain that although God wants us to be good people, it’s impossible.  We are NOT perfect!  That is why Jesus was sent in our place, to live and follow all of God’s Commandments perfectly, to take the burden of ALL of our sins and put on the cross with Jesus.  One discussion just leads into another and then another, but I am inspired!  Do they finally get it??  Only time will tell.
 
After another awesome Ghanaian meal by Agnes (spaghetti noodles with some kind of tasty sauce and beans –LOTS!-and a warm salad, yes, it’s ok to eat, yummy!), I was left to myself to teach the adults.  Sandy wrote review questions of our Moses story on the board and all the students answered them correctly!! I was so excited I was jumping up and down!  I guess there is a teacher side to me!
 
Packed up to head for Tamale early tomorrow morning.  Tamale is the hardest part of this journey for me and I don’t feel it’s off to a good start.  I spoke with the Headmistress on the phone earlier today and she said it would be an “inconvenience” for them since they don’t have a room for us.  What does that mean??  She knew in advance that we were coming.  Ok, now I’m game!!  NOT!
 
It’s late, and there is no Internet!  This was our last opportunity to contact family before we head out!  I have to admit, I’m a tad emotional, but Pastor Reinke was able to contact my husband by phone!  That was truly a blessing!  He said it’s COLD in WI right now.  I suppose this hot, humid, dusty weather doesn’t seem all that bad!   Tomorrow it will be something else. 
 
 

Sat. Jan. 20, 2007

 
This is going to be a loooooooooooong day!  I didn’t get to bed until 1:00 am and but never got to sleep! 
 
I fear this will be a long story (must be from sleep deprivation).  This bus ride is not what I’m looking forward to, so I thought I would be brief.  I’m exhausted but can’t sleep.  I don’t want to miss out on anything.  So, this idle time gives plenty of opportunity for thought.  I have many! 
 
Climbed aboard the bus to Tamale with Betty Jo and Amadu at 7:00 AM.  It leaves its station at 7:20.  Not a bad start until we realized we should have worn more clothes.  It’s a tad chilly!  A woman, I believe to be Muslim senses that.  Perhaps it was all the children t-shirts we were piling on to take to the school.  She offers some material that we use as a blanket. This same woman also offers some helpful advice to a distressed young mother with a very unhappy baby.  A beautiful gesture from a stranger and we’re only minutes into our ride.  Immediately, we discover more of Ghana’s charm.
 
This green bus will be our “home” for the next 6+ hours.  We begin on a different route from last year.  It doesn’t take us long to hit the traffic.  It’s Saturday, but the taxis and vendors are already clogging the streets.  As we ride along this country, I am amazed at its beauty.  It’s very poetic!  There is MUCH to see, rich in color and variety.  Each new village we pass – it is the children that always capture my eye.  This big green bus must look foreign to this land; the children are always stopping to look at it as it passes by, offering a smile and a wave.   Their eyes light up as I reciprocate.
 
The landscape changes as we head north.  Even the Wa Wa trees are far and few between and the ones you do see are stunted in growth.  Definitely getting drier.  The harmattan is not kind this year.  The feeble attempt to grow corn is wasted; it’s too long between drinks of water.  But yet, these farmers are relentless in their efforts.  It’s a family tradition, passed on from their fathers.  The fortunate children that attend school learn the updated farming methods in special vocational studies.  Farming is a required course, as well as sewing.  These are a few options that the deaf have here.  As I look over Amadu’s shoulder, he reads a newspaper.  In bold letters, “DEAF COUPLE WED!”  Apparently, that is worthy to make the front page in Ghana news!
 
The mud huts replace the shacks in the villages.  Make shift cemeteries line the roadsides in these areas.  The wealthy deceased have stone head markers; the poor are nothing but a mound of dirt.  In this area, people make a lot of bricks.  Clay and dust are in abundance here, as is the garbage.  The land is charred from either burning it or unattended fires left to burn to promote new growth.  Hints of green are evident, but then eaten by the goats or unmanned cattle that roam the fields.  Yams are the staple in this area.  Rolled over taxis remain where they are, then stripped for parts for working vehicles. No tow trucks or AAA in Ghana!  Leftover remnants become part of the landscape with Kudsu-like vines growing in and around them.  Some of these plants blanket the living foliage while the more aggressive ones make it high in the Wa Wa’s, then cascade downward.  Bamboo grows great and tall!  Termite mounds are becoming more frequent.  Villages are scattered out more, some tucked away far from the road.  “Compound villages” (circle of mud huts that connect with a mud “fence” to make one house and family member inhabits each hut), become the preferred housing.  I was told, in this area, the old traditions still remain.  No technology here, except cell phones.  Everyone has them and then even the poorest of villages sells “units” (minutes).
 
We made a short stop along the side of the road, so the men can urinate.  It’s strange listening to all this peeing going on.  I explain this all to Betty Jo.  She laughs.  I have become her ears! Not long after that, we stop at a roadside market.  Now the bus is loaded down with fresh produce: bananas, yams, spicy peppers and plantains.  Only in Ghana!  It isn’t long that we do stop at an actual “rest stop” and given the opportunity for all to stretch their legs.  However, we are given only 5 minutes!  Betty Jo and I are the only Oburinis (white people) on this trip, so the folks know we are NOT familiar to this area.  They show us a “toilet” out back, an open-air stall, with a hole in the floor that is clogged!  The men get to use the field!  Amadu tells us we need to hurry for the bus is leaving, I “scored”, Betty Jo couldn’t; she felt rushed!  Sound familiar Jean?? 
 
We travel another hour and then pull into the REAL bus stop/market place.  Vendors and beggars are everywhere.  It breaks my heart to see children begging for food and money.  I am in awe of the way Ghanaian women stack their fruits and vegetables on trays, put it on their heads, and nothing EVER falls!  I debate this with Amadu, asking if it’s an equator thing.  He laughs.  He does that a lot with me!  Amadu says it’s because they know how to stack.  Whatever it is, it’s true art!
 
As we head out again, I was told it was another 2+ hours!  We have already put in the usual 6 hours it would take!  Then we face road construction!  Not the same as in America!  Dodging taxis, goats, potholes that will swallow a bus whole, it makes traveling interesting. I told Betty Jo, that if our bus tilts too far on our side, we’d flip.  We have all the luggage and bananas under us!  This bus is old.  It barely makes it up hills; feels like it will fall apart on the washboard roads, and does not pass around other vehicles very well.  The back of the bus is sprayed with oil.  Amadu compares this bus and driver to a “tired pregnant woman.”  Ah, such is life in Ghana. I was taught last year, “Americans have watches; Ghanaians have time.” Once again, I am reminded of that!  At this part of the journey, I offer a pillow to a man that has been sitting on the floor this entire journey thus far.  He declines, and laughs.  Again, only in Ghana can you fill the bus aisle with things and people.  The man bought a ticket, just not a seat!  There were none left to be bought.  And poor Amadu!  He has to repeat this trip, as he will head back to Kumasi after dropping us off at the school.  Wow, he must really care for us. He will not return to Kumasi until well after midnight.  I love this man, like a brother! 
 
The air is getting much drier.  The closer to our destination, the people and their clothes begin to change, as well as my nose and skin.  I feel like a raisin!  There is a high concentration of Muslims in these parts.  They’re not hard to identify, so much covering for this hot weather.  And no one seems to sweat but me!  We stop at the Black Volta toll bridge.  I remember this place well.  This is where I encountered a machete swinging young boy last year.  His name was Emmanuel!  We spoke about the meaning of his name, “God With Us.”  I wonder if that experience was life altering for him as it was for me.  I was again convinced of the power of prayer that day. 
 
We arrive in Tamale with almost 8 hours on the road.  I see many more Muslims, kneeling and bowing, all in unison.  I don’t know the direction they’re facing, but these people are just plain lost!  Another new adventure begins here, but not before it becomes a hurried series of events.
 
Mary, Amadu’s fiancée, meets us at the station.  She’s a beautiful young woman (reminds us of Janet Jackson), with a smile to match her sweet personality.  They definitely are a cute couple and oh, the beautiful children they will make!  Soon after, Moiko arrives, another friend of Amadu’s and he will be our contact person during our stay in Tamale.  These two were classmates together all through school.  Moiko is a fellow Lutheran in a city that mostly follows Allah.  He says things are moving in a new direction, a good thing!  We take a fast taxi to the school (approximately another 40 minute ride).  Amadu has a 4:00 pm bus he needs to catch.  It’s 3:20 pm!  He suspects the bus will leave late, they all do.  We arrive at the school and are greeted by a small group of children.  I can’t say for sure, but I believed one of them signed, “Good Morning.”  Smile   That is my trademark!  No matter the time of day, it’s always morning to me.  The children gathered remembered me and then ask for Jean.  WOW!!  We must have left a good impression last year!  Amadu looks for the Assistant Headmistress Maryema, our cook and roommate from last year to greet us.  She remembers me also.  We are off to a good start so far.  This small reception is welcoming!  A room needs to be cleaned, so we get back into the taxi for the 40-minute ride back into Tamale to eat.  My butt is numb and I’m soooo tired!  We eat quickly some jollof rice with chicken, one of my favorite dishes in Ghana, Amadu’s bus leaves (with Amadu on it), Mary leaves and we are left with Moiko.  His accent is thick, and this place is so dark and noisy.  The Ghanaians like to listen to their radios and TVs LOUD!!  Now Amadu tries calling me from the bus with last minute details.  I can’t hear him so Moiko takes over.  After dinner, we join the mass of people in the streets for a taxi back to the school (yes, another 40 minute ride!). 
 
My head is in a fog; I’ve reached beyond my limit!  Moiko said we were going to cross the street.  I don’t remember what happened to that suggestion.  I’m so used to following Amadu, that I loose track of what Moiko is wearing.  I turn to Betty Jo to remind me, and she’s not there!  I call out Moiko’s name, and this man doesn’t turn around!  It’s utter chaos in the streets and among ALL the noise I hear my name.  It’s Betty Jo with Moiko, across the street!  They realized that I was gone, so they were following me from where they were.  I wish I had a picture of my reaction.  There is a good lesson here, I’m sure.  Betty Jo was the voice in the dark for me.  I heard HER deaf-like voice, a familiar sound to me above the crowded street.  It’s like how a mother knows her own baby’s cry. That’s powerful!
 
Moiko negotiates a taxi back to the school for us.  That’s the way business is done here.  Nothing is full price.  It’s getting dark now.  The taxi driver is friendly, as all the ones we’ve met.  Interesting music:  Dolly Parton and Willie Nelson.  I come to Ghana to listen to this?  Does America have that much of an influence?  We arrive back at the school and Maryema directs us far from the school, past the Mosque (yes, on the school grounds), to the teacher’s compound.  Here we’ll share boarding with some of the teachers and their families.  It’s a mixed bag of Christian and Muslim. Everyone greets us and says, “You are welcome.”  We enter a small courtyard with 6 doors leading to separate quarters.  Inside a “porch,” then another door to a room with 2 cots, a table, chair and stool.  This is our home for the next several days!  Someone obvious gave up his living space to accommodate us.  The only thing that remains on the wall is a schedule of classes, with a sticker in the middle that reads, “God is With YOU!”  That is a true sign!  It was at that moment I knew that we were going to be ok!  God is working out everything!
 
We settle into our room.  It’s even darker in these parts and a whole lot quieter.  We were immediately informed the toilets are out back.  I expected the open field and we were prepared to meet this challenge together head on.  Equipped with a flashlight, we head out back and are “relieved” to discover a 2-seater outhouse!  Betty Jo is a little apprehensive until I check for animals down the hole.  With none in sight, we “went” together, as a TEAM!  We never laughed so hard!  We no longer have to sleep together, but now we just go to the toilet together!  I think we’re giddy!
 
It’s too late and dark to meet with the children, so I settle for a quick bucket bath (in the BATH room), and get to bed early, 9:00 PM!  Wow, what a day!  I hit the pillow and as I feel the coolness of the fan, I am OUT!  No roosters or howling dogs would have prevented me from sleep!   
 
 

Sunday, Jan. 21, 2007

 
Got a great night’s sleep.  I knew that I would.  Yesterday was a long day!  There was a lot of activity despite the long bus ride. Obviously, I had much to think about!
 
Met up with Sabrina (Peace Corp worker here) late last night.  She remembered me from last year.  It helps to have connections in Ghana!   Smile.  She invited us for breakfast for pancakes.  She brings me up to date on her life here.  “Interesting!”  She fills our head with all sorts of Ghanaian culture, their ways and perceptions on “oburinis.”  In a sense, I am left to feel that we are really putting everyone out here. Visitors always cause a problem because no one wants the extra work. Obviously, we have put someone out of a room!  They are frantic what to feed us, who will cook it, etc.  It’s not “our fault” as Sabrina kindly puts it, it’s just certain things are expected from Americans – like they think we “need” everything.  Ghanaians won’t ask us questions; it’s just “passed down” by assumption.  Americans also perceive all of this differently.  I’m still learning, if it’s offered, just accept it whether you want it or not.  Gee, and I wonder why we are perceived as needing everything!
 
We have yet to meet Madam, so we stroll to see the children.  Some gather, some are off to church (either the “bus” takes them to the Catholic church or most just walk to the Mosque).  We were told that most of the children here are Muslim, but this morning, the Mosque is quiet.  The children that remain at school, we do an impromptu class on the doorsteps of the girl’s dorm.  The Salvation bracelet I wear is a good “ice breaker.”  The kids are excited and know their colors for sure.  When we finish with that story, the kids ask to move to a cool classroom for more stories.  I guess we aren’t the only ones bothered by the hot sun.  We move to a classroom and soon have many more kids.  We continue with Pharaoh’s story and the 2 midwives. Before we begin, I inform the children that Betty Jo and I are Christians, and explain what that means.  We believe in Jesus Christ, that He died for us and our sins are forgiven through his death.  Believing that, when WE die, we will go to Heaven.  They seem to understand, or do they?  Their learning level is so different that Cape Coast, but I suppose, there really isn’t a comparison.  We teach for over an hour and decide on a break.  It’s lunch soon, so the kids ask for more this afternoon.  Great!  3:00 PM, we’ll meet again!
 
 
Sabrina makes a wonderful “soup” of veggies and rice.  WE find out there was an “incident” here on Friday involving a very young girl and an older boy.  That explains why the kids were giving me the “sex” sign and teasing a girl.  I thought it was a strange name sign!  It was “suggested” that since the kids pay attention and understand us, we could teach about “good morals,” such as a SEX ED class.  Yikes!  Ok, if God put us here for THAT reason, so be it.  How does one start a conversation as this without putting blame/ embarrassment on a suspected child?  Lack of discipline is still a problem here.  The kids are CONSTANTLY hitting each other; that’s what they’re taught.  We won’t have it in OUR classroom.  We need to pray about this!
 
After lunch, we rest until 3:00 then head to class.  I can’t remember anyone’s name.  No Christian names here so everyone is a letter on some body part.  The kids are always in your face so you don’t recognize or remember anyone.  A few stand out!  There is much more mental illness here.  These kids are the ones that are truly forgotten.  You see it on their faces and clothes.
 
We get a FULL class!!  One student, who reminds me of Joseph, takes charge and gathers everyone he sees.  Now it’s chaos!  I hear it; kids are just moving around, hitting, not paying attention.  Betty Jo begins with the 10 Commandments, you know, RULES!!  We have to stop and explain our policy of Rule #1, NO hitting! Rule #2, respect!  It doesn’t work!  There are some who came to listen, others couldn’t care less, but we do know that ALL ages together is a bad idea!  But despite all that, when we finish (a tad early), they want more!  Right now, it’s too much pandemonium!!  We sing (they seem to enjoy that), and then go outside to play the “Elephant” game!  They REALLY love that!  We play into their chore time!  They ask for us to come back after dinner!  Great!  7:00, it’s much cooler then!
 
Mariema makes us a great yam stew.  We eat in the dark because this area of Ghana is “off” for it’s 12 hour run.  Sabrina gives us a candle.  The skyline is beautiful; the stars and moon are shining.  It’s our first glimpse of a clear sky since our arrival here. 
 
Obviously there is no class.  I take my first bucket by candlelight.  I feel so refreshed.  No fan tonight!  I think I will still sleep well. 
 
 
Linda
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